How To Place A Static Caravan

The permanent placement of a caravan on breezeblock piers provides a solid platform which is resistant to rocks and maintains absolute level. This is both desirable for the comfort of people and to prevent refrigerators from malfunctioning if used off-level. This is important for tyre life and suspension life.

  • A caravan can be permanently parked on breeze block posts to create a solid platform that is resistant to rocking and maintains absolute level.

You should check with your local council to see if the area you are considering for your static caravan site is allowed for permanent residence. The proximity to property lines or streets, as well as the fixing of utility cables such water pipes or power cords permanently change the use of your mobile home’s definition from touring caravan to static. Removing caravan wheels may result in a charge to the council. Additionals like screened awnings may be subject to wind zone regulations, as lean-to roofs can increase “wind capture”.

Place the caravan on a level, flat area. To remove all vegetation, rent a sod cutter. Spray the area with a non-leaching herbicide.

  • You will need to create a flat and level area where you want the caravan to be placed.
  • You can remove all vegetation using a rental sod cutter.

Make sure to create a solid base and cover it with enough gravel to at least 5cm (2in) of water.

Attach oversized bubble level covers to one side of the rear caravan corner using stabilizing jacks or a carpenter’s level.

Move the caravan towards its permanent destination and then chock it. The tongue jack should be extended. Take the tow vehicle off the spot.

Determine the required number of breeze blocks to build each pier. Six 25 cm (10 inches) tall breeze blocks will be required to raise the wheels from the ground. They must then be assembled in an interlocking three-level pattern. You should arrange enough blocks around the four places where you want to build the piers.

  • Find the required number of breeze blocks to construct each pier.
  • You will need to place enough blocks around the four places where you want to build the piers.

Place wooden shims at the locations to build the piers.

Place four pavers measuring 60 cm (24 inches) on each side of the gravel. Each paver must be perfectly flat and smooth to prevent cracking later.

Turn the tongue jack so that the rear of the caravan tilts up enough to permit installation of the rear piers.

On the two rear pavers, construct both rear piers. Two breeze blocks should be aligned in each direction. The next course must then be aligned in the same direction. This will create an interlocking arrangement. Insert shims to fill the gap between the chassis and top block until there is no room for more.

  • Both rear piers should be constructed on top of the rear pavers.
  • If there is not enough space underneath the top block, add shims so that the area between the chassis and the top block can be filled.

Use a bottlejack to lift the caravan from the forward corners. Position broad jacking pad beneath each jack to stop them from sinking. This can be done safely by constructing temporary piers underneath the bottle-jacks. Alternately elevate each jack 5cm (2inches) at a stretch to reduce the risk of damaging them.

Keep jacking until the caravan’s back is on the rear support piers. You must remove all weight from your wheels in order to get a stable sitting.

Place the front piers exactly the same way as the rear. Reduce the bottlejacks so that the caravan can be settled on the four piers. Keep the tires off of the ground.

To avoid twisting your chassis, fine-tune the level by placing a bottlejack under each corner. Start from the side and move fore-to aft. You can avoid repeatedly entering the caravan by using the bubble levels. To ensure that the caravan is level, slide in enough wooden shims. After this step, depressurise the jack and take it out. The shims should be sufficiently long and broad to cover the entire upper surface of every pier. You should avoid contacting the caravan frame with breeze blocks. Therefore, you must insert at least one shhim wherever weight is transferred from support piers to each pier. Solid hardwood should be free of knots and cracks.

  • You can continue to jack the car until it is on the rear piers.
  • Insert enough wood shims until the level is achieved, then release pressure and take out the jack.

Sometimes relevelling is required for freeze/thaw cycles or heavy rains. To minimize the need for relevelling, use as few piers as possible to support the caravan. Four piers are sufficient for the specified size static caravan. Place the solid-walled breeze blocks vertically. The breeze blocks with solid walls will not be strong if placed on their sides. After the caravan is set up, depressurising partially will increase their lifespan. Cover the wheels with ultraviolet shields if your location is exposed to extreme ultraviolet and ozone damage. Winterize the onboard water system if you are leaving your caravan for a long time. Attach hurricane straps to anchors in case of severe weather.

When lifting large or unwieldy items, always have someone with you. Position safety blocks under caravan during entire siting process. The stabilising jacks, which are hand-turned and powered by hydraulic or electric levellers, can be found under the caravan. These and the tonguejack serve to spread ground weight. These should not be used for lifting the axle off of the ground. Make sure both bottles jacks have a rating that exceeds the weight of your caravan. The sufficiency of scissor-jacks is not guaranteed. The frames of caravans will bend if the load is placed far from the axle. This is because the axle is what is supposed to bear the weight. Frame-twisting can be caused by racking or support of corners. Racking can cause doors, windows and cabinets to stop working properly.